Today I got into a discussion about the UN troops that are apparently destined for Sudan. Under the comprehensive peace agreement between the north and the south, and the recent agreement for Darfur there was an understanding that there would be international peace keeping troops. True to form, the government wants to go back on their word. The disagreement of whether to accept troops or not has reached the highest cables of the government. The second vice president Ali Osman, one of the engineers of the comprehensive peace agreement, and who is in support of peacekeeping troops, has taken a leave of absence for an unspecified period of time. It is rumored that he has relocated his entire family to Turkey. I really hope that this peacekeeping troop will be empowered and mandated to engage in combat if the terms of the cease fire and agreement are violated. The president in front of the parliament gave a long impassioned speech about protecting the land from foreign invaders and other such evocative images of religion of Iraq etc. He was asked by one of the MPs whether any of the ordinary citizens were behind him in defending the country, for after all he, the president, had failed them in basic things such as education, health, and security.
I like being at an institution where research is happening. It gives me hope that scholarship can still continue even under duress. There are a small but very dedicated cadre of researchers and scholars and its important for Sudanese in the diaspora to support their work. On a sad note I've discovered, or rather it came to my attention that cancer is now the third leading killer of Sudanese. Its a phenomena common to most of the developing world. Infectious disease are not things of the past, but chronic diseases are getting up there. The problem is there hasn't been extensive epidemiological work on the reasons why cancer rate has sky rocketed, and it certain types of cancer.
I was pleasantly surprised to see advertisements about the importance of safe sex, and AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases. I'm told it is all because of the new health minister, a southern Sudanese doctor, and a woman I might add. She is pushing through this campaign with the help of UNAIDS. I'm not sure how effective its been but its early days yet.
A note about my project God willing I'll be going to the field at the end of the week. But first I'll enjoy pleasantries of my cousin's wedding.
Monday, June 26, 2006
Saturday, June 24, 2006
The Russians are Coming
If I had any doubt that the country is filled with foreigners it was laid to rest last night. I went to the Afra Mall, which is funded in part by Turkish company. I could count the Sudanese on my hands, it was filled with UN folks, and Chinese, Turkish and Malaysian business folks. It was a little disconcerting I don't know why exactly I'm reacting so negatively to seeing foreigners in Sudan. I think its probably because most of them were brought in by a very self serving corrupt government that is profitting hugely from these people, but there is not even a trickle down to the average citizen. At the amusement park in the gardens of the mall, the park is called the SudaTurk Family Park, the only music I heard was Turkish music. It was pretty surreal.
I have only been in Sudan about three weeks, but everyday I go out I see a fist fight. I think its because tempers flare under the hot, hot sun. I have to admit the heat is getting to me, it canspoil a perfectly good day, and ruin your happy disposition. But I'm learning patience.
I passed by the Russian mafia house the other day. Well at least thats what my friend calls it. Its actually the residence of all these Russian pilots. They fly relief worker planes, government planes, apparently they make quite a killing. I met a couple of them last year. I don't know how they get around since most of the ones I met didn't speak Arabic or English.
I think like Zimbabwe Sudanese schools are going to start offering Chinese, in addition to this Turkish and maybe even Malay.
I have only been in Sudan about three weeks, but everyday I go out I see a fist fight. I think its because tempers flare under the hot, hot sun. I have to admit the heat is getting to me, it canspoil a perfectly good day, and ruin your happy disposition. But I'm learning patience.
I passed by the Russian mafia house the other day. Well at least thats what my friend calls it. Its actually the residence of all these Russian pilots. They fly relief worker planes, government planes, apparently they make quite a killing. I met a couple of them last year. I don't know how they get around since most of the ones I met didn't speak Arabic or English.
I think like Zimbabwe Sudanese schools are going to start offering Chinese, in addition to this Turkish and maybe even Malay.
Thursday, June 22, 2006
The Sudan I Love
I'm getting very good at taking public transport despite sticking out like a sore thumb. One of my colleagues says that although I look Sudanese I have a foreign stamp or something. People love striking up conversation with me, and generally looking at me. Its a little unnerving. The other day I went to a restaurant to have lunch. So I went to the washroom, and I was minding my own business and this old guy, is like "hey baby, can I get your number so I can get to know your sweetness". It was pretty gross.
On the bus I like to sit next to the window and look outside. Truth be told Khartoum is an ugly capital. But there is always something interesting going on. People are always eating outside, chatting laughing. Children are playing, old women, old men and children are begging. I saw a particularly gruesome accident, where a woman wearing a burqa was injured. The first person who came to her aid, and physically carried her was southern woman, around her neck was a cross. I wish I had taken a picture, because in my mind that is what Sudan can be.
Things are kind of picking up here. We're making final preparations and we should be off soon. My cousin is getting married, and her "Henna" is next friday. The "Henna" is the night where she is decorated with henna on her hands and feet. Then in a matter of days she's off to Saudi to be with her new husband.
I've discovered anything called "Friendship" was a gift from the Chinese during the times of Communism. There is a Friendship Hospital in Omdurman which is just across the river from Khartoum. One of my younger cousins believes it is her destiny to marry a Chinese man. It will be interesting if that happens, its not unheard of, I've seen Chinese-Sudanese couples, there are stranger things.
I have been impresonating medical officials. I needed to go visit my mother's aunt at the hospital but visiting hours were over, so I spoke only English telling them at that I was a visiting doctor from the U.S. and needed to see my patient. My cousin came in as well she was my translator you see.
Besides havoc and mayhem I've been spreading love. I can't wait to get to the field. I sometimes really miss the States, but then sometimes I can't imagine not being here. Its exciting and there's challenge, everything is different here. I sound like one of those European Africanists. Talk about exotifying my own country. But I've learned patience, or at least trying to, everything takes forever to get done so I better get used to that.
On the bus I like to sit next to the window and look outside. Truth be told Khartoum is an ugly capital. But there is always something interesting going on. People are always eating outside, chatting laughing. Children are playing, old women, old men and children are begging. I saw a particularly gruesome accident, where a woman wearing a burqa was injured. The first person who came to her aid, and physically carried her was southern woman, around her neck was a cross. I wish I had taken a picture, because in my mind that is what Sudan can be.
Things are kind of picking up here. We're making final preparations and we should be off soon. My cousin is getting married, and her "Henna" is next friday. The "Henna" is the night where she is decorated with henna on her hands and feet. Then in a matter of days she's off to Saudi to be with her new husband.
I've discovered anything called "Friendship" was a gift from the Chinese during the times of Communism. There is a Friendship Hospital in Omdurman which is just across the river from Khartoum. One of my younger cousins believes it is her destiny to marry a Chinese man. It will be interesting if that happens, its not unheard of, I've seen Chinese-Sudanese couples, there are stranger things.
I have been impresonating medical officials. I needed to go visit my mother's aunt at the hospital but visiting hours were over, so I spoke only English telling them at that I was a visiting doctor from the U.S. and needed to see my patient. My cousin came in as well she was my translator you see.
Besides havoc and mayhem I've been spreading love. I can't wait to get to the field. I sometimes really miss the States, but then sometimes I can't imagine not being here. Its exciting and there's challenge, everything is different here. I sound like one of those European Africanists. Talk about exotifying my own country. But I've learned patience, or at least trying to, everything takes forever to get done so I better get used to that.
Sunday, June 18, 2006
Politics of the Sun
So I haven't had access to the internet for the past week because DSL nation wide has been down. The only places that use fiber optics are hotels and relief agencies designed for western relief workers or tourists. I have been spending these past few days getting approval from the federal ministry of health.Why is it that no one told me that I had to get approval for the federal and state ministry to do any type of health project? Since the project is looking at coinfection with malaria and schistosomiasis I have to talk to both peoples. Snubbing anyone is dangerous, research and disease is pretty personal here. Everything is someone's turf.
I went out to dinner and ice cream two nights ago with my cousin, and a friend from the states doing work on sufism in Sudan. He wanted to go to this new Malaysian restaurant. When we got there, my cousin and my friend were creeped out. Apparently it was exclusively for the Malaysian and east Asian workers in Sudan who were all men it seemed. I mean I liked it fine, but no sooner did we seat down my friend ushered us out. They said they didn't like the stares they were getting. So we ended up going to the Syrian restaurant a couple paces away. Then we went for ice cream. It was thursday night, which is the equivalent of friday night back in the states, places are crowded, there is a nighlife, liquor and probably dancing for those who can afford it. Thus its a very foreign and the 1% upper class Sudanese scene.
I have become really lazy. Ok maybe I was lazy before but now I'm really lazy. It has something to do with the hot pounding merciless sun. I'm supposed to be at the institute everyday at 9am, I usually slink in around 11am. I mean I use public transport and I like to take my time. Yesterday I didn't even go into work. Lucky for me the professors nation wide are on strike. I forgot about the strike so I came in today and no one except some students were at the institute. So not much work was done anyway. I only have one day off, friday.
In a week and a half God willing I leave to Rahad. I'm a little nervous, but the team is great. There's a clinician, a technician, and several enumerators including myself, and interviewers. There is actually a very attractive colleague of mine on the team, I admit I'm excited about that.
I can't think of what else to share, except that I went to a theme park yesterday. It was my idea of Hell. I along with a 20 year old cousin were in charge of 10 little youngsters ranging in age from 5 to 11. Between pacifying their excitement for the rides, and their upset cotton candy filled stomach I got to ride the Train of Death, which I have to admit was pretty exciting.All in all I'm having a blast lets hope not literally since apparently there's some terrorist threat because the UN is sending in peacekeeping troops to Darfur.
I went out to dinner and ice cream two nights ago with my cousin, and a friend from the states doing work on sufism in Sudan. He wanted to go to this new Malaysian restaurant. When we got there, my cousin and my friend were creeped out. Apparently it was exclusively for the Malaysian and east Asian workers in Sudan who were all men it seemed. I mean I liked it fine, but no sooner did we seat down my friend ushered us out. They said they didn't like the stares they were getting. So we ended up going to the Syrian restaurant a couple paces away. Then we went for ice cream. It was thursday night, which is the equivalent of friday night back in the states, places are crowded, there is a nighlife, liquor and probably dancing for those who can afford it. Thus its a very foreign and the 1% upper class Sudanese scene.
I have become really lazy. Ok maybe I was lazy before but now I'm really lazy. It has something to do with the hot pounding merciless sun. I'm supposed to be at the institute everyday at 9am, I usually slink in around 11am. I mean I use public transport and I like to take my time. Yesterday I didn't even go into work. Lucky for me the professors nation wide are on strike. I forgot about the strike so I came in today and no one except some students were at the institute. So not much work was done anyway. I only have one day off, friday.
In a week and a half God willing I leave to Rahad. I'm a little nervous, but the team is great. There's a clinician, a technician, and several enumerators including myself, and interviewers. There is actually a very attractive colleague of mine on the team, I admit I'm excited about that.
I can't think of what else to share, except that I went to a theme park yesterday. It was my idea of Hell. I along with a 20 year old cousin were in charge of 10 little youngsters ranging in age from 5 to 11. Between pacifying their excitement for the rides, and their upset cotton candy filled stomach I got to ride the Train of Death, which I have to admit was pretty exciting.All in all I'm having a blast lets hope not literally since apparently there's some terrorist threat because the UN is sending in peacekeeping troops to Darfur.
Saturday, June 10, 2006
Love and Wardi
So I went to a Mohamed Wardi concert two nights ago, he's like the Frank Sinatra of the Sudanese world. The concert was at the Friendship Auditorium, a gift from China during the 1970s when the then president of Sudan, Numeiri was playing at being a communist. Who would've known two decades later China along with a few psychotic so-called Islamicists would pretty much own Sudan.
Wardi is an amazing singer his voice is still powerful eventhough he's probably in his late 60s early 70s. The only sign of weakness was that he sat throughout the whole concert but even then he looked like a king or a general commandeering his musicians and the audience. I realized that he's a pretty patriotic guy, all his song are about finding, or searching for the homeland trying to capture the love for it, but always failing.
After the concert we went to a restaurant for a quick bite. There are sooo many restaurants in the capital and prices are ridiculous there is this one place where you have to pay like $10 for a burger, of course its owned by an Egyptian. Its pretty sad since according to official stats 90% of the country lives below the poverty line. In war there are always those who profit. I mean Sudan is perfect for the relief industry, for ngos, for the UN etc, it has war, famine and disease, and the country has relatively stable if extremely autocratic government. If the war stopped overnight the economy in Khartoum would suffer, its a war economy that depends on relief, UN workers and other foreigners spending money.
Then there are the other Arabs, Turks, Chinese and Malaysians, they sure have made themselves at home. They are very invested in the country, in the oil, hotel and restaurant businesses. Land is ridiculously expensive, it costs more than in any other African capital I know, and I would dare say is more expensive than the U.S.
The heat is killing me. So are the little sand storms, they seem to always occur at night, and I'm sleeping outside so I get covered by layers and layers of dust. I can't wait to go to Rahad, I'm told the weather there is temperate with some showers. The two and half months are starting to seem very long.
Wardi is an amazing singer his voice is still powerful eventhough he's probably in his late 60s early 70s. The only sign of weakness was that he sat throughout the whole concert but even then he looked like a king or a general commandeering his musicians and the audience. I realized that he's a pretty patriotic guy, all his song are about finding, or searching for the homeland trying to capture the love for it, but always failing.
After the concert we went to a restaurant for a quick bite. There are sooo many restaurants in the capital and prices are ridiculous there is this one place where you have to pay like $10 for a burger, of course its owned by an Egyptian. Its pretty sad since according to official stats 90% of the country lives below the poverty line. In war there are always those who profit. I mean Sudan is perfect for the relief industry, for ngos, for the UN etc, it has war, famine and disease, and the country has relatively stable if extremely autocratic government. If the war stopped overnight the economy in Khartoum would suffer, its a war economy that depends on relief, UN workers and other foreigners spending money.
Then there are the other Arabs, Turks, Chinese and Malaysians, they sure have made themselves at home. They are very invested in the country, in the oil, hotel and restaurant businesses. Land is ridiculously expensive, it costs more than in any other African capital I know, and I would dare say is more expensive than the U.S.
The heat is killing me. So are the little sand storms, they seem to always occur at night, and I'm sleeping outside so I get covered by layers and layers of dust. I can't wait to go to Rahad, I'm told the weather there is temperate with some showers. The two and half months are starting to seem very long.
Friday, June 02, 2006
Finally Here
So I arrived in the motherland yesterday at 530am. the plane was like so empty i think there were 2o passengers in all, four of them were clearly foreign either tourists or un/ngo folks.
I was pretty tired considering i hadn't slept for like 2 days. i tried valiantly not to sleep but i ended up nodding off, i've also come down with a cold of sorts, hopefully my homeland won't be the death of me, as everyone seems to think. but i'm so glad that i have a week or so to play around with before starting work, thank God for schedules. i forgot how damned hot khartoum is during the summer.
i haven't really explored or gone out except to this internet cafe near my uncle's house.
but despite this i've heard lots of talk about iraq, iran and sudan. well the political environment and questions about u.s. involvement. everyone seems to think a un force in darfur is inevitable. one thing is sure though everyone is confident, with much sadness, that nothing will shake the islamicist government in the north, not darfur not the u.s. nothing. anyhow i doubt it is in u.s. interest to shake it.
i am meeting up tomorrow possibly with a friend of mine. he does research on sufis, he's been living here for the past year and it'll be interesting to get his perspective on things. i might venture out into the city tonight but i doubt it.
anyhow i'm about finished with my credit here, i better be nice since i plan on using the internet cafe during my stay in the capital.
I was pretty tired considering i hadn't slept for like 2 days. i tried valiantly not to sleep but i ended up nodding off, i've also come down with a cold of sorts, hopefully my homeland won't be the death of me, as everyone seems to think. but i'm so glad that i have a week or so to play around with before starting work, thank God for schedules. i forgot how damned hot khartoum is during the summer.
i haven't really explored or gone out except to this internet cafe near my uncle's house.
but despite this i've heard lots of talk about iraq, iran and sudan. well the political environment and questions about u.s. involvement. everyone seems to think a un force in darfur is inevitable. one thing is sure though everyone is confident, with much sadness, that nothing will shake the islamicist government in the north, not darfur not the u.s. nothing. anyhow i doubt it is in u.s. interest to shake it.
i am meeting up tomorrow possibly with a friend of mine. he does research on sufis, he's been living here for the past year and it'll be interesting to get his perspective on things. i might venture out into the city tonight but i doubt it.
anyhow i'm about finished with my credit here, i better be nice since i plan on using the internet cafe during my stay in the capital.
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