Smelly Things

Some of my lab mates are wondering, or rather have morbid curiousity of what it is like to make fecal slides. I will satisfy their morbid curiousity. Urine slides are a piece of cake so to speak compared to fecal slides. The first time I prepared one, I was excited because that moment symbolized all the hard work I had put in planning the field. The smell didn't hit me. The second time I almost keeled over. First you give a small container about the same size and shape as urine containers you are given in the doctors office. You tell your kid to poop in the container. There is a little spoon in the container with the spoon you use it to put it in on some hard poster paper. You add some saline to soften it up, its kind of like cooking. Anyhow I won't go into the morbid details.
I have to go read some thick and thin smears now. But more details to follow.

Anniversary

Today marks the year anniversary of the death of Dr. John Garang. The capital is empty, many people are wary of going to work because they are afraid. They are afraid that the events of last year might happen this year. For two weeks the capital was the epitome of wartorn African country. Weeks after they were pulling dead bodies out of the canals. There are still burned and destroyed cars and buildings in the capital.
Most people in the north want separation they think it will solve everything, some don't even mind if Darfur decides to split as well. That won't solve anything, most of the would be countries aren't viable nations within themselves.
I'm glad to be back in the capital because the bulk of the survey and collection is over. But I miss the weather back in the west, the capital is scorchingly hot.

Rahad Continued

I'm writing from Rahad, theres a tech genius in our team and he figured how to boot his computer to gprs for free. Right nbw he's my favorite person in the world. What was I saying before, so far we've covered seven schools we have three more to go. I'm the only female on the team at times its annoying because after we finish working they go off smoke sheesha, drink cofftea and observe females. I like a good Sudanese girl go back to the Nazir's house.
I've become a minicelebraty in town. Everyone knows my name is Lina the Khawajiya, or westerner. In fact in two days I'm supposed to give a talk about the projects findings, and what my life is like as a Sudanese American.
The project, the trip, life in the field has been bitter sweet. I've gotten to know everyone really well. For the most part I get a long with them. There's only one dude I absolutely can't stand, and most people on the team feel the same. You really get to know someone when they are outside they're comfort zone. I'm going to miss my team though, for they're a good bunch of guys.
Yesterday was an extremely bad day for me. First we forgot to tell a school that we were coming the next day, so they had prepared meals for us, and were waitng for us the whole morning and part of the afternoon. This was the poorest school in the area, when I think of the resources they spent on the meals I feel sick. The next thing that happened was a doctor from the state ministry of health called and basically insulted me and then hung up on me. He was supposed to work with us for a week, but we found a doctor in Rahad so we called and told him. He called to deny the phone call, to threaten me, and tell me that he wanted me to send back the malaria medicine (artesemine)and the microscopes that the ministry of health had given us. Its all good because one of my Sudanese supervisors is the director of the national schistosomiasis and malaria program, and Sudan is all about connections. I won't say the bastard didn't affect my day he basically ruined it.
Minor annoyances, but like funny occurences is that the director of education in Rahad keeps saying he's betrothed me to his nephew. Thats only after he figured out he's the same age as my father, he was hoping I might be his fourth wife.
I'm happy despite all the little hurdles and annoyances. I've learned how to go about doing field work in Sudan, and made some valuable connections. I dare say maybe even friends. Either way though I've come to the conclusion that I'm not a typical Sudanese and that perhaps thats ok. I wasn't meant to be that, and I most likely won't be marrying someone from my country. I've forgotten about the Irish Sufi, they're rare like leprechauns or gold pots at the end of rainbows.

Rahad

I've been on the "field" for a week now. Rahad is a small town between Umruwaba and Obeid. The latter being the largest city in western Sudan. The field has been so far rated as with 80% success rate by those who have been on fields. But its been frustrating. First of all we had to ship most of our supplies so they arrived a day or two after us. Then when we arrived, the water was green. I have been taking showers in green water, no doubt i've contracted some disease giardia if not schistos but thats all good. Then we have this one guy on the team he's such a nag, and such negative energy. All he does is complain and nag and complain. The thing is he doesn't do anything, just brings the whole team down. Sadly my minutes in internet heaven are up, no doubt we will continue this conversation at a later date, most likely in the capital.

Old Friends

If anyone from the states saw me in Sudan they wouldn't recognize me, especially when I'm at the Institute. I wear long skirts, and a headscarf. I look like a hijabi. Its actually kind of amusing how clothe and cultural contexts changes the way people look. I met a friend of mine from my time at Beirut, and he didn't recognize me. I think I speak differently as well, but that is the way things go I guess.
I met a childhood friend of mine the other day. We grew up in Kenya together. He's lived in Sudan for five years and he's not exactly completely Sudanese but he's adapted. He works for a bank, and was talking about how difficult it is for him since Arabic is his second language. He said he bought grade 6 and7 Arabic grammar books so he could improve his language skills. So when his younger brother who was basically born and raised in Kenya asked about if it would be possible for him to eventually work in Sudan, my friend laughed. His younger brother can barely string a sentence in Arabic let alone read and write.
This trip so far has taught me three things about myself. One I'm not as Sudanese as I think, and two I can be very patient, and three I want to come back to Sudan. I came to this conclusion through my interaction with my peer group outside my family. There are times when people at the Institute will be talking to me, I understand the words, but there are little nuances and cultural intonings that go over my head.
There is something in the water or in the air, because there are subliminal messages everywhere to get married. I have a fear that I'll come back engaged or married without even realizing it. My family is doing formation of the mating/marriage dance I feel like they are planning in earnest to introduce me to eligible males. Sadly I'll have to disappoint them.

Weddings and Rahad

So during familial visit to Obeid, I made my way to Rahad. Well not that I crept into the night, I went with my cousin and great uncle. I met the medical director for Rahad hospital, the superintendent of schools, and the nazir/emir, i.e. the tribal head of the largest ethnic group in the area. It was a very fruitful and necessary visit. It was also a sad visit because there is an outbreak of cholera in Rahad. The medical director had gone to the capital of the province to ask for financial assistance from the state health ministry, as expected no help was given. It just emphasized to me how our federal spending is all wrong, and how the areas outside the capital are marginalized in every way. If all goes according to plan I should be in Rahad this Thursday. I'm really excited, in fact I had a dream last night that I was in a classroom, and I was accepting stool and urine samples from children.
As to my less than professional interest in one of my colleagues. We'll see what happens, nothing more romantic than being surrounded by feces, urine and blood. Rahad is where the action is at. The weather in Obeid was really nice, it rained so its kind of depressing being back in the hot, hot capital.
This morning we went to the airport to see off my new bride, my cousin. She's probably arrived by now in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia where she was no doubt met by her new husband. She ruined her make up with her tears and the tears of my relatives.
I'm feeling really tired and sleepy eventhough it is only 3pm. I have a tons of other things to do, so sadly I can't actually go to sleep.